OSU Master Gardener(TM)

Kale IPM

2011-09-12T15:41:00.000-07:00

Excuse me, but there’s a worm in your pesto.

Kale leaf foliage,
stripped from the leaf 'rib'.

The finished product: kale pesto!

The finished, finished product:
kale pesto on homemade pizza.

Yesterday afternoon, my husband and I harvested kale and basil to make pesto. The basil did quite well this season – with nary a pest blemishing its leaves. The kale, on the other hand, came with several added bonuses that I didn’t want in the pesto:

Cabbage worm larvae (caterpillars) and eggs
Aphids - with signs that an infestation was imminent
Spiders and their webs

We harvested the kale, and I carefully inspected and washed each leaf before cutting the flesh of the leaf blades from the rib. We made a tasty kale pesto, that was delicious on pizza with homemade crust and sauce (shout out to my husband, who is the cooking brains in this operation).

But as I was making the pesto (or, cleaning the leaves, so my husband could make pesto), I knew it was time to go out into the garden to manage the cabbage worms and the aphids, before they got out of control.

Cabbage worms are the larvae (young) of the ubiquitous cabbage butterflies (Pieris rapae) that you see flying around everywhere. The adult butterflies lay their eggs on cruciferous plants: broccoli, cabbage, collard greens, Brussels sprouts and kale. The larvae can’t feed on non-crucifers. Thus, females who make a ‘mistake’ and lay their eggs on a non-cruciferous plant basically doom their young to death by starvation.

I've dealt with the cabbage worms all summer long. Every day when I watered, I carefully picked their eggs off of the kale leaves. I searched the leaves and picked off the caterpillars that hatched from eggs that I missed. I was happy when my husband cleared out a nearby tangle of grape and blackberry canes (i.e. stems), and the spiders promptly migrated from that area and into my vegetable garden. The spiders surely helped to keep the cabbage worm population down - pouncing on caterpillars as they munched on my kale, or entangling the caterpillars in their web. They might even munch on an aphid or two (although, spiders really prefer and need the protein rich meal that the caterpillars offer - much more nutritious than the sac of sugar that is an aphid).

Two cabbage worm eggs
on kale. I picked these off of
kale leaves, as I watered the
garden.

A late-instar cabbage worm,
almost ready to build a cocoon.
I pick these off of leaves, as well.

Spiders munch on cabbage worms
and other insect pests. I leave
these be in my garden. They're my
pest control buddies.

But, the spiders couldn't do it all themselves. After harvesting and cleaning this batch of kale, I knew that I needed to go out into the garden and use chemical controls. My conundrum, however, is that I wanted to control the cabbage worms and the aphids, but not harm the spiders. I needed to use pesticides that had a 'narrow spectrum' of activity. Narrow spectrum insecticides harm a relatively few types of insects and other arthropods. Broad spectrum pesticides harm a large array of insect types, and are thus more likely to harm both your pest (which you want) and your beneficials (which you don't want).

I went to my pesticide storage container, and decided on 2 products. Both products are organic. When I need to use a pesticide, I prefer using organic pesticides, over synthetic pesticides in my vegetable garden. The major benefit of using an organic pesticide over a synthetic pesticide is that organic pesticides degrade quicker than synthetics, after they are applied. I hate the idea of eating pesticide residues with my vegetables, so when I am treating edible plants, I almost always use an organic product. I want that extra assurance that the vegetables will be pesticide free when I harvest, cook and consume them.

The products are also formulated, so that they will help manage the cabbage worms and the aphids, but that they are unlikely to harm other insects and arthropods. I wanted to protect my garden spiders, afterall. They're my caterpillar eating buddies.

Label of a narrow-spectrum insecticide with the active
ingredient Bt-k (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki).

To control the cabbage worms, I chose a dust formulation of a product whose active ingredient is Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (also called Bt-k). The insecticide only works against the larvae of butterflies and moths (like, the cabbage worm caterpillar I am trying to manage on my kale). In addition, this insecticide must be eaten in order for it to be effective. Thus, if I sprinkle the dust only on my kale leaves, only those caterpillars that are eating my kale will get a dose of the insecticide. The brand name of the product doesn't matter. Look for the active ingredient (Bt-k), formulated as a dust.

Pay attention to the directions for use. You only need 0.5-1 oz per 50 square foot of garden. One ounce = 2 tablespoons. Thus, for a standard sized 3 foot by 5 foot garden bed, you only need one third to two thirds of a tablespoon. Since this product often comes as a dust formulation, and is packaged in way that you can simply 'shake out' the pesticide, much the same way you might sprinkle Parmesan cheese on top of spaghetti, it's unfortunately easy to over apply this pesticide. To avoid over applying, set the dispenser so that the pesticide will lightly sprinkle out of the packaging. Don't open the dispenser all of the way when applying.

Note that you only need 0.5-1.0 ounces
per 50 square feet of garden. This is a
very small amount! Be careful not to
over apply.

Instead, apply a fine dusting, with the
container open only the tiniest amount.

If you apply the dust with all of
the holes open, you're likely to over
apply this insecticide in your garden.

To control the aphids, I chose a ready to use spray formulation of insectidal soap, which has an active ingredient name of 'potassium salts of fatty acids' (or something similar). Insecticidal soaps work by degrading the exoskeleton of the insect. Thus, they best against small, soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, whiteflies or thrips, and tend to have little effect on larger, harder-bodied insects such as beetles, caterpillars, grasshoppers. Insectidal soaps must contact the aphids in order for the insecticide to work. Unlike Bt-k, insectidal soaps do not require the insect to eat the toxin. Instead, the insectidal soap must contact the aphids in order for the insecticide to work.

Label of an insecticidal soap product, with the
active ingredient 'Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids'.

I had another option available to me. When my flea beetle (and my aphid) problem became too big for me to manage using physical controls (i.e. picking the beetles off of the plant) or biological controls (i.e. relying on parasitoids to help me control the beetles), I needed to incorporate a chemical control into my integrated pest management approach. I decided to use an organic pyrethrin. Pyrethrins are an organic insecticide that works against a wide range of insects. Even though it is an organic insecticide (and thus has the advantage of degrading rapidly in the environment), I avoid using this product when I can. It surely helped me to control the flea beetles and aphids on my potatoes, but if I had accidentally sprayed the pesticide onto a parasitoid or a bee, it would have probably killed those beneficial insects. Because the aphid problem on my kale could be managed with insecticidal soaps, I chose not to use this broader spectrum and combination product.

Note that the product below has two active ingredients: pyrethrins plus potassium salts of fatty acids (i.e. insectidal soaps). This is an example of a combination product. The product above has only one active ingredient: potassium salts of fatty acids.

Label of a combination insecticide, including broad
spectrum pyrethrins, as well as insecticidal soap.

Why Garden?

2011-08-17T12:24:00.000-07:00

Why do you garden? If you were to send me your responses, I’m sure I would receive as many unique answers to this question, as there are Master Gardeners. However, I thought you might be interested in these research findings on the benefits of gardening. You may already know these benefits to be true, but it is nice to see them documented by research:

Gardening Provides Relief from Acute Stress. Participants were asked to perform a stressful task, and then were asked to either read indoors for 30 minutes or garden outdoors for 30 minutes. Participants who gardened had their positive mood completely restored to what it was prior to performing the stressful task. Moods deteriorated for those that read. Both groups saw a reduction in the stress hormone, cortisol, but the reduction was greater for those that gardened.

Van Den Berg and Custers. 2011. Gardening promotes neuroendocrine and affective restoration from stress. J Health Psychol. 16: 3-1.

Gardening Helps Your Family Eat Better. About 75% of adults don’t get their daily recommended requirement of fruits and vegetables. However, adults with a household member who gardens consumed fruits and vegetables 1.4 times more per day than those without a gardener in the family. These same adults were 3.5 times more likely to consume fruits and vegetables at least 5 times daily.

Alaimo et al. 2008. Fruit and vegetable intake among urban community gardeners. J Nutr. Educ. Behav. 40: 94-101.

Gardening Promotes Physical Health. Active gardeners (150+ minutes per week spent gardening) burn nearly twice as many calories per week than casual gardeners (120-150 minutes per week) and non-gardeners. They also have better physical function, hand function and life satisfaction. But, active gardeners also have worse back pain, so be careful out there!

Park, Sin-Ae. 2007. Gardening as a Physical Activity for Health in Older Adults. Doctoral Dissertation, Department of Horticulture, Forestry and Recreational Resources. Kansas State University.

Gardening and Other Outdoor Activities are Effective Treatments for Childhood Obesity. Children seeking treatment for obesity were assigned to 1 of 4 treatment groups: individual therapy, group therapy, summer camp (outdoor activities, including gardening) and advice in 1 session. All groups decreased their body mass index, relative to those in a control group (no intervention), and the results lasted 6 months after the intervention. If I were a kid, I know that I would enjoy summer camp and gardening a whole lot more than therapy . Take joy in introducing the next generation to gardening!

Braet et al. 2008. Follow-up results of different treatment programs for obese children. Acta Pediatrica 86: 397-402.

Gardening Decreases Risk of Dementia. In a 16 year study that followed 2,800 men and women, all of whom were free of dementia at the start of the study, those who gardened had a 36% reduced risk of developing dementia. In other good news, those who had a single drink on a daily basis reduced their risk of developing dementia by 34%.

Simons et al. 2006. Lifestyle factors and risk of dementia: Dubbo study of the elderly. MJA. 184: 68-70.

So, continue to garden and continue to teach others how to garden. It will benefit our individual, family and community health. Afterall, the OSU Extension Master Gardener Program does subscribe to research-based information. I know that I sure like the results of the Simons et al. study, especially now that I live in a state with amazing wines and beer!

OSU Master Gardener's photostream

2011-06-16T17:04:00.001-07:00

OSU Master Gardener's photostream on Flickr.

Plants, places and other goodies that may be of interest to Oregon Master Gardeners.

The Battle Against Flea Beetles

2011-06-14T13:01:00.000-07:00

This weekend, I noticed small holes chewed in my potato plants. Whenever I see holes chewed in leaves, I immediately think 'it must be a beetle'. In fact, loopers, armyworms, cutworms and grasshoppers also chew holes in leaf tissue. However, the small, tiny holes in my potatoes were a clear indication that flea beetles were to blame. Flea beetle damage has been described as a leaf looking like it has been shot with several shots from a bb gun (albeit, very small bb's). Whitney Cranshaw describes the damage as looking like the leaves have been hit by fine buckshot - but not knowing what buckshot is, I default to my past experience with bb's. This is very different than the wholesale destruction (often called 'skeletonization') caused by loopers, armyworms and cutworms. It is also different than the large 'chomps' taken from leaves by grasshoppers.

It didn't take me too long to locate the offending chewers. Flea beetles are small and black. When disturbed, they jump off of the leaf much like a flea might jump from a dog. Flea beetles, however, are not blood suckers. They're leaf chewers that locate their host plants using the chemical cues that the plants emit.

Herein lies my problem. I prefer not to use pesticides in the garden. This is a personal preference - due to my being (1) lazy and (2) cheap. I don't like to spend money on pesticides. I don't like to take the time it takes to calculate application rates. Although I love math, I try to keep my garden a math-free zone. Unfortunately, to judiciously use pesticides or fertilizers in the garden requires that I pull out a tape measure - document the area on which I will use the chemical(s) - carefully read the pesticide or fertilizer label - and then translate the area where I will use the chemical(s) to an amount that will come out of the container. I'm just not that motivated.

So what is the problem? Flea beetles are very, very, very, very (you get the idea) difficult to control. They're strong fliers. They locate their host plants by sensing ('smelling') the plants' chemical cues. Worse yet, research strongly suggests that some flea beetles can use the chemical cues in the plants on which they are feeding, to make an aggregation pheromone (Peng and Weiss 1992). This sets the poor gardener (e.g. me) up for failure. One male flea beetle lands on my potatoes and starts to feed. He incorporates the chemical constituents of the leaf tissue, and re-manufactures at least some of these into Axe Body Spray for beetles. Basically, he turns my poor potatoes into his singles bar. No wonder I noticed so many mating beetles on my potatoes this morning, despite my efforts to pick the plants clean just 12 hours earlier. Given this type of chemical wizardry, it would be virtually impossible for me to control the flea beetles by hand-picking them off of the leaves - my preferred pest control method.

Weighing my pest management options, I refer to the PNW Handbook, and look up the entry for flea beetles. The PNW Handbooks are what we use in the Oregon Master Gardener Program, for research-based and reviewed pest control options. The PNWs don't always list the full suite of cultural, physical and biological controls available. But, if chemicals are necessary (which they may be, to control the flea beetles on my potatoes), then the PNWs provide a list of reviewed products. From the list of home use products for flea beetles, I see that neem oil is listed. Neem oil is an organic pesticide that can be used to control a variety of insects and pathogens. Because it is an organic pesticide, it tends to degrade quicker in the environment, relative to synthetic pesticide options. (Please note that organic pesticides are still pesticides. Organic pesticides are not necessarily less toxic than synthetic options, and in some cases are more toxic.)

But, I'm not yet keen to use neem. This is my personal preference, and not my professional recommendation to other gardeners. My own aversion to using chemicals, at this time, is because along with the flea beetles that were feeding on the tops of my potato leaves, I found aphids feeding and giving birth on the underside of the leaves. During Master Gardener training classes, I've often lectured about the benefits of 'popping' aphids. Squish an aphid, and you magically attract parasitoid wasps. Akin to how male flea beetles can use a plant's chemistry to attract the ladies, parasitoid wasps are able to 'smell' the chemicals that are released when an aphid is crushed. Some species of aphids release alarm pheromones when they are crushed. The alarm pheromones send a signal to nearby aphids: 'Abandon ship! We've been found! Parachute to safety, or else be eaten!'. The cool thing about alarm pheromones is that parasitoid wasps, ladybugs and other aphid enemies can hone in on a group of aphids, using released alarm pheromones as a guide (Micha and Wyss 1996). Yesterday, I crushed aphids. Today, I found parasitoids crawling all over my potatoes. A coincidence? Probably not.

So I'm left with potato plants that are infested with flea beetles, and that also have a few aphids (the bad guys). But, these same plants have parasitoid wasps and ladybug eggs (the good guys).

I want to get rid of the bad guys, and will most likely need a chemical solution to take care of the flea beetles. But, even the organic option - neem oil - is known to have negative effects on parasitoids, ladybugs an other natural enemies (Lowery and Isman 1995). The same is true for other insecticides listed for control of flea beetle.

What will I do? Because: (1) my potato plants are relatively large, (2) my tolerance for damage is high, and (3) my aversion to garden math during non-working hours is even higher - I will continue to vigilantly hand pick pests off of my plants. But, if I appear to be losing the hand-picking battle, I'll pull out my calculator, work through garden algebra, and judiciously apply a pesticide on affected leaves. I'll follow label directions, will continue to scout my plants, and will turn to floating row covers to keep the beetles off of my plants while they're looking for places to feed and mate. Once the flea beetle danger has passed, I'll remove the row covers, and look forward to harvesting healthy spuds in the fall. Although, it's hard to predict when the flea beetle danger may pass, since there can be 2-3 generations per year in Western Oregon.

Wish me luck!

Figures

Top: Flea beetle and flea beetle damage (photo taken by: Gail Langellotto)
Middle: Parasitoid wasp (photo taken by: Gail Langellotto)
Bottom: Ladybug eggs (photo taken by: Steve Rhodaback)

References Cited

Lowery, D.T. and M.B. Isman. 1995. Toxicity of neem to natural enemies of aphids. Phytoparasitica 23: 297-306.

Micha, S.G. and U. Wyss. 1996. Aphid alarm pheromone (E)-B-farnesene: a host finding kairomone for the aphid primary parasitoid Aphidius uzbekistanicus (Hymenoptera: Aphidiinae). Chemoecology 7: 132-139.

Peng, C. and M. J. Weiss. 1992. Evidence of an aggregation pheromone in the flea beetle, Phyllotreta cruciferae (Goeze) (Coleoptera: Chrysomelidae). Journal of Chemical Ecology 18: 875-884.

Annual OSU Recommended Vegetable Varieties List Released

2011-02-22T07:58:00.000-08:00

2-18-11

OSU-recommended vegetables provide best yields in local gardens

By Judy Scott, 541-737-1386, judy.scott@oregonstate.edu

Sources: Annie Chozinski, 541-737-8959, chozinsa@hort.oregonstate.edu

Jim Myers, 541-737-3083, myersja@hort.oregonstate.edu

CORVALLIS, Ore. — Vegetable varieties and melons recommended by Oregon State University for 2011 are adapted to local growing conditions to produce the best yields in home gardens. The OSU Extension Service recommends the updated varieties listed here for all areas of the state except regions indicated.

"We look at these varieties at least two years before we can make recommendations," said Annie Chozinski, faculty research assistant with the horticulture department at OSU.

"Some we consider for many years, especially if they vary from year to year,” she said. “We observe and measure many traits, but it's the overall score that helps us decide. If something has high scores in everything but succumbs to disease pressure, it is not recommended. Similarly, if something is highly disease resistant but has odd flavors, size or variability, we don't recommend it."

Regions:

I. Oregon coast: cool but long season of 190 to 250 days.

II. Western valleys: 150-250 day season; warm days, cool nights; length of season may very considerably from year to year.

III. High elevations: short growing season of 90 to 120 days; frost possible in any month.

IV. Columbia and Snake River valleys: 120- to 200-day season; hot days, warm nights, length of season fairly well defined.

Recommended varieties:

Artichoke

(not regions III and IV) Green Globe, Imperial Star, Emerald.

Asparagus

Mary Washington, Jersey Knight, Jersey Giant, UC 157, Purple Passion.

Beans

(green bush) Tendercrop, Venture, Slenderette, Oregon 91G, Oregon Trail, Provider, Jade, Oregon 54.

(flat Italian) Roma II.

(French filet) Nickel, Straight ‘N Narrow.

(green pole) Blue Lake, Kentucky Wonder, Romano, Cascade Giant, Kentucky

Blue, Oregon Giant.

(wax bush) Goldenrod, Goldrush, Indy Gold, Slenderwax.

(lima, bush, large seeded) Fordhook 242 (or any Fordhook).

(lima, bush, small seeded) Thorogreen, Baby Fordhook, Jackson Wonder.

(dry) Pinto, Red Kidney, White Kidney (Cannellini), Cranberry, Etna.

(edible Soybeans or Edamame) Envy, Early Hakucho, Butterbean, Sayamusume, Misono Green.

Beets

Ruby Queen, Red Ace, Kestrel, Early Wonder, Pacemaker III, Detroit Dark Red, Red Cloud.

(cylindrical) Cylindra, Forono.

(golden) Golden.

(novelty) Blankoma, Chioggia.

(greens) Early Wonder Tall Top, Bull’s Blood.

Broccoli

Premium Crop, Packman, Arcadia, Early Dividend, Windsor, Emerald Pride, Gypsy.

(Romanesco type) Romanesco, Veronica.

Brussels Sprouts

Jade Cross "E", Oliver.

Cabbage

(early) Parel, Primax, Farao, Tendersweet, Gonzales, Surprise.

(main season) Golden Acre, Bravo, Charmant, Cambria, Invento.

(late fall, winter) Danish Ballhead, Storage Hybrid #4, Blue Thunder.

(red) Ruby Perfection, Red Acre.

(savoy) Melissa, Savoy Express, Savoy Ace, Perfection, Famosa.

Chinese cabbage

Michihili, Monument, China Express.

Pac choi: Mei Qing Choy, Joi Choi.

Carrots

Red Core Chantenay, Royal Chantenay, Scarlet Nantes, Mokum, Bolero, Apache, Danvers, Sugarsnax 54, Nelson, Napa, Kuroda, Nantindo, Magnum, Navarino, Sweetness III, Napoli, Yaya, Vitana, Skywalker.

(yellow) Yellowstone.

(white) White Satin.

(purple) Purple Haze.

(baby carrots) Minicore, Parmex, Thumbelina.

Cauliflower

Snowball "Y" Improved, Snow Crown, Candid Charm, Apex, Amazing.

(Purple) Violet Queen, Graffiti.

(green) Panther.

(Romanesco type) see Broccoli.

Chard

Fordhook Giant, Rhubarb, Bright Lights, Bright Yellow, Silverado, Broadstem Green.

Chicory

(green) Crystal Hat (tall, slender heads).

(red, also known as Radicchio) Chiogga Red Preco, Palla Rosa Special, Indigo, Treviso (tall, slender heads).

Celery

Utah 52-70R, Tango.

Celeriac: Brilliant, Diamont.

Collards: Vates, Champion, Flash.

Corn

Yellow Kernels

Standard sweet (early): Sundance, Early Sunglow, Seneca Horizon.

(main season): Jubilee (also called Golden Jubilee).

Supersweet (early): Butterfruit.

(main season): Supersweet Jubilee.

Sugary enhanced (very early): Sugar Buns.

(early): Precocious, Spring Treat.

(main season): Incredible, Kandy King, Kandy Korn, Legend, Bodacious.

White Kernels (must be isolated from yellow or bicolor types to get all white kernels).

Supersweet (main season): How Sweet It Is, Xtratender 378A, Mirai 421W.

Sugary enhanced (early): Sugar Pearl

Sugary enhanced (main season): Argent, Whiteout, Silver Princess.

Bicolor Kernels

Supersweet (early): Xtratender 272A, Mirai 308BC.

(main season): Honey and Pearl, Xtratender 277A.

Sugary enhanced (early): Trinity, Fleet.

(main season): Temptation, Brocade, Delectable, Mystique.

Triple Sweet types (sh2su hybrids): Sweet Rhythm, Serendipity, Sweet Chorus,

Nantasket, Renaissance.

Ornamental

(must be isolated from other corn): Wampum, Chinook.

Note: Kernel quality of all the above corn varieties may be dramatically altered under certain pollination conditions. Supersweets must be isolated from other types.

Cucumbers

(pickling) SMR 58, Pioneer, Bush Pickle, County Fair, Clinton, Cool Breeze, Regal, Vertina.

(slicing) Burpee Hybrid, Marketmore 86 & 97, Poinsett, Raider, Dasher II,

Slicemaster, Intimidator, Tasty Green, Orient Express, Genuine, Sweet Marketmore, Tasty Jade.

(novelty) Armenian, Lemon.

Eggplant

(not regions I, III) Dusky, Epic, Bambino (round), Cloud Nine, Calliope, Burpee Hybrid, Millionaire, Classic, Lavender Touch (white with lavender blush), Dancer (violet).

(elongated) Megal, Bride, Orient Express.

Endive

Green Curled, Batavian, Salad King, Neos.

Gourds

(ornamental) Harrowsmith Select, Little Guys Mix, Corsican, Turk’s Turban, Aladdin, Large Bottle, Goblin Eggs, Autumn Wings.

Kale

Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch, Improved Vates, Siberian, Winterbor, Winter Red, Nero di Toscana, Blue Ridge, Red Bor, Red Ursa.

Kohlrabi

Early White Vienna, Early Purple Vienna, Kongo, Kolibri, Eder.

Leeks

American Flag, King Richard, Kilima.

Lettuce

(heading, main season) Summertime, Ithaca.

(red leaf) Prizehead, Red Sails, Redina, New Red Fire, Merlot, Red Tide.

(green leaf) Salad Bowl, Grand Rapids, Slobolt, Pom Pom.

(oak leaf) Oaky Red Splash, Cocarde, Mascara, Blade.

(romaine) Paris Island, Valmaine, Green Towers, Outredgeous, Devils Tounge, Little Gem, Freckles.

(bibb type) Optima, Buttercrunch.

(butterhead) Esmeralda, Marvel of Four Seasons, Emerald Oak.

(batavian) Nevada, Sierra.

Melons

(not regions I and III)

(Cantaloupe/muskmelon) Ambrosia, Harper Hybrid, Gold Star, Classic, Pulsar, Superstar, Earlisweet, Primo, Fastbreak, Hannah’s Choice, Athena, Earlichamp, Sarah's Choice.

(Honeydew) Earlidew, Honey Orange.

(Galia types) Galia, Passport, Arava.

(Crenshaw types) Early Hybrid Crenshaw.

(Canary) Sugarnut.

Mustard Greens

Green Wave.

(long standing) Osaka Purple, Giant Red.

Onions

(yellow) Copra, Prince, First Edition, New York Early, Candy.

(red) Redwing, Mars.

(white) White Sweet Spanish, Superstar.

(overwintering) Walla Walla Sweet.

(green bunching) Ishikura, Tokyo Long White, He-shi-ko.

Parsley

Triple Moss Curled, Banquet, Dark Green Italian Plain.

Parsnips

Harris Model, All America, Hollow Crown, Gladiator, Andover, Cobham Improved Marrow, Javelin.

Peas

(shelling) Novella II, Oregon Trail, Oregon Pioneer, Green Arrow, Maxigolt.

(oriental edible pod) Oregon Sugar Pod II, Oregon Giant.

(snap pea, bush) Sugar Daddy, Super Snappy, Cascadia, Sugar Sprint, Sugar Ann.

(snap pea, pole) Sugar Snap or Super Sugar Snap (virus susceptible; plant early).

Peppers

(sweet bell, green to red) Parks Early Thickset, Camelot, Fat 'N Sassy, Ace,

Bellboy, Jupiter, Yankee Bell, North Star, Lady Bell, King Arthur, Lantern.

(sweet bell, green to yellow) Golden Bell, Golden Summer.

(sweet bell, green to orange) Ariane, Mandarin.

(sweet bell, green to purple) Lilac Bell, Purple Beauty, Tequila.

(sweet bell, green to lavender to red) Islander.

(sweet bell, green to chocolate) Hershey.

(sweet bell, ivory to red) Ivory.

(specialty sweet types) Sweet Banana, Banana Supreme, Bananarama, Gypsy, Biscayne, Pizza, Lipstick, Apple, Paprika Supreme, The Godfather, Giant Marconi, Round of Hungary, Sweet Cayenne, Carmen, Corno di Toro Yellow.

(cayenne) Super Cayenne II, Andy, Cayenne Long Slim.

(jalapeno) Tam Jalapeno, Early Jalapeno, Conchos, Fresno, Mitla.

(paprika) Mariachi, Paprika Supreme.

(specialty hot types) Cherry Bomb, Serrano, Anaheim TMR23,

Caribbean Red Habanero, Hot Paper Lantern, Bulgarian Carrot, Aji Amarillo.

(novelty, ornamental) Marbles, Riot, Pretty in Purple.

Potatoes

(red) Red Pontiac, Norland, Red La Soda, Cranberry Red.

(white) Russet Burbank, Superior, Goldrush, Kennebec, Butte.

(yellow) Yellow Finn, Yukon Gold, Bintje, Desiree, Red Gold (red skin, yellow flesh),

Carola.

(purple) All Blue.

(fingerling) French Fingerling.

Pumpkins

(large) Jack O'Lantern, Howden, Autumn Gold, Lumina (white), Magic Lantern, Rouge Vif d'Etampes (Cinderella), Rock Star, New Rocket, Sorcerer, Charisma.

(small) Small Sugar (also called Small Sugar Pie), Orange Smoothie.

(compact vines) Tom Fox, Oz, Spirit.

(novelty and exhibition) Big Max, Dill's Atlantic Giant, Prizewinner.

(hulless seeded types) Baby Bear, Snack Jack, Trickster, Kakai.

(mini ornamental types) Jack Be Little, Wee-Be-Little, Lil Pump-ke-mon, Baby Boo.

Radish

(red) Fuego, Comet, French Breakfast, Cherry Belle, Champion, Cherriette, Crunchy Royale, Pink Beauty.

(white) Burpee White, White Icicle.

(large Japanese type) Sakurajima Mammoth.

Radicchio

see Chicory.

Rutabaga

American Purple Top, Laurentian.

Shallots

Bonilla

Spinach

(spring planted for early summer harvest) (smooth leaf) Bloomsdale Long Standing, Olympia.

(savoy) Correnta, Unipack 151, Melody, Hellcat, Butterflay.

(late summer planted for fall harvest) (smooth leaf) Oriental Giant, Bordeaux.

Squash

Summer

(yellow) Early Prolific Straightneck, Multipik, Supersett, Fancycrook, Sunray, Yellow Crookneck, Goldbar, Gentry.

(green zucchini) Ambassador, Seneca, Elite, Tigress, Aristocrat, Raven, Cashflow, Geode (round), Floridor (round).

(yellow zucchini) Gold Rush, Butterstick.

(scallop) Sunburst, Sunny Delight.

(other summer) Tromboncino (C. moschata).

Winter

(not Region 1)

(misc) Golden Delicious, Banana, Blue Hubbard.

(Buttercup/Kabocha) Sweet Meat, Sweet Mama, Ambercup, Buttercup Burgess Strain, Gold Nugget, Black Forest, Autumn Cup, Bonbon.

(Delicata) Sugar Loaf, Honey Boat.

(Acorn) Table Queen, Mesa Queen, Table Ace, Taybelle, Table Gold (orange), Cream of the Crop (white).

(Butternut) Early Butternut, Ultra, JWS 6823.

(Spaghetti) Spaghetti, Pasta, Stripetti, Small Wonder.

Sweet Potato

(not regions I, II, III) Centennial, Georgia Jet.

Tomato

(very early) Oregon Eleven.

(early) Early Girl, Oregon Spring, Santiam, Oregon Pride, Oregon Star, Siletz, Legend.

(medium) Willamette, Pik Red, Celebrity, Sunleaper, Mountain Spring, Medford, First Lady II, Big Beef.

(late) Big Boy, Better Boy, Fantastic, Bush Big Boy, BHN 444, Ramapo.

(cherry type) Oregon Cherry, Gold Nugget, Sweet Million, Cherry Grande, Sun Gold, Early Cherry, Thai Pink, Juliet, Sunsugar, Large German Cherry, Sweet Baby Girl, Orange Paruche.

(yellow) Jubilee.

(orange) Orange blossom.

(paste) Oroma, Saucy, Halley 3155, Viva Italia, Super Marzano, Macero II, Health Kick,

Classica, Olivade.

(heirloom) Brandywine (Sudduth’s Strain or potato leaf strain), Seattle’s Best of All.

Turnip

(root) Purple Top White Globe, Royal Crown, Tokyo Cross.

(greens) Shogoin.

Watermelon

(red fleshed) (not regions I, III) Crimson Sweet, Charleston Gray, Sweet Favorite, Carmen, Sweet Diane, Sweet Cheer, Verona.

(yellow fleshed) Yellow Doll, Sunshine.

(orange fleshed) New Orchid.

(red seedless) Millennium.

(ice box) Sugar Baby, Tiger Baby.

About Garden News from OSU Extension Service: The Extension Service's "Gardening Encyclopedia" web page,http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/, links to a broad spectrum of information on Oregon gardening, such as news, calendars, how-to publications, audio programs, the Master Gardener program and "Northwest Gardeners e-News."

A Giant Has Fallen (to borrow a phrase from a Master Gardener)

2010-12-29T20:06:00.000-08:00

I'm saddened that Gray Thompson, one of the founding fathers of the Oregon Master Gardener Program, passed away recently.

As you may know, the Oregon Master Gardener Program was started in 1976, through the efforts of Gray Thompson and Duane Hatch. At the time, Duane was an Extension Agent in Lane County, and Gray was an Extension Agent in Clackamas County. Thus, the first Master Gardener classes were taught in these two counties, by these two innovative and adventurous individuals.

Although he helped to start the Master Gardener Program in the 1970s, Gray began his career with OSU Extension in 1948, working in agriculture and 4-H. During his time with OSU, Gray worked in Lincoln, Umatilla and Multnomah Counties, before his time in Clackamas County.

Following Gray's retirement in 1983, he took the Master Gardener training course with his wife, Norrene. The two have been active Master Gardener volunteers, ever since.

Gray served as President of the Clackamas County Master Gardener Association. For many years, he taught training classes for the incoming Master Gardener classes. Jan and Ray McNeilan report that Gray is likely responsible for starting the popular pH soil tests at the Milwaukie Senior Center.

In 1996, Gray was honored as a Diamond Pioneer Award Winner, by OSU Extension. In 1997, Gray and Norrene were honored as 'Outstanding Cooperators' by the OSU Extension Association. In 2005, the couple was honored as Oregon Master Gardeners of the Year in 2005 by the Oregon Master Gardener Association and the OSU Extension Master Gardener Program. In 2006, Gray was inducted into the 4-H Hall of Fame . More recently, Gray and Norrene served as MG Guides in the Metro Master Gardener Program, where they helped to insure that both interns and MG veterans provided consistent, accurate and reliable information to clients. All of this and more helped to build and strengthen the Master Gardener Program for the benefit of so many faculty, staff, volunteers and clients.

Those who have had the pleasure to chat with Gray will likely remember him as a true gentleman - ever excited about gardening and about community service through the Master Gardener Program. Jan and Ray McNeilan, who knew Gray very well (Ray had worked with him since 1978) passed on the following sentiments: "We will miss his never-ending enthusiasm, his pride in the MG program and his signature hello, 'Ahoy there.".

When I first started my work at OSU, Gray was generous with stories, jokes and smiles that made me even more excited to join the great tradition of those who came before me. I'm saddened beyond words to think that I will no longer see him at Master Gardener events, or at the annual Gardeners Mini-College.

The memorial service for Gray Thompson will take place at Moreland Presbyterian Church (1814 SE Bybee Blvd, Portland) on Saturday, January 15th, at 2 p.m.

The Integrated Garden

2010-02-20T08:55:00.000-08:00

A recent NY Times article on aquaponics highlighted the practice of integrating gardening with fish culture. Such an approach can provide a family with a well rounded diet of an nutrient rich vegetables and low fat fish protein.

Although this approach to growing and raising food is just beginning to attract attention in the United States, it has been practiced for more than a century by Asian rice farmers. However, as the Green Revolution swept Asia, mechanized production, pesticides and fertilizers made rice fields increasingly inhospitable for raising fish. The practice has the potential to more efficiently produce food, during a time when resources (including water) are increasingly sparse.

With a resurgent interest in vegetable gardening, edible landscaping, urban/suburban chickens, permaculture, urban homesteads - aquaponics is another example of how we can re-envision gardening practices to more holistically include family- and community-centered goals. Growing and eating nutritious and locally-produced foods are practices that I hope transition from trends to tradition.

Raingarden Guide for Gardeners

2010-01-11T23:11:00.000-08:00

(Originally posted on http://blogs.oregonstate.edu/h2onc/2010/01/11/rain_gardens/)

CORVALLIS, Ore. – A new guide on building sunken-bed rain gardens to collect and filter runoff water can help Northwest homeowners learn how to redesign home landscapes to help protect rivers and streams.

Rain gardens can help restore the natural water cycle, according to Rob Emanuel and Derek Godwin of Oregon State University Extension and Oregon Sea Grant Extension.

“As our landscapes became developed, rain falling on hard surfaces was directed to pipes, ditches and storm drains that route to streams or into stormwater sewer systems,” Emanuel said. “The result is too much water arriving in a short amount of time and carrying pollutants.”
Rain gardens work like a native forest, meadow or prairie.

“They capture and redirect stormwater from hard surfaces such as roof tops, driveways, parking lots and streets,” Godwin said. “Rain gardens help keep watersheds healthy by filtering out toxins before they pollute streams and lakes, and they can actually recharge aquifers by encouraging water to soak into the ground.”

The new 44-page illustrated guide, “Oregon Rain Garden Guide: Landscaping for Clean Water and Healthy Streams,” was written by Emanuel, Godwin and Candace Stoughton, who works for the East Multnomah Soil and Water Conservation District. It can be found online at http://seagrant.oregonstate.edu/sgpubs/onlinepubs.htmlor ordered by calling Sea Grant Communications at 541-737-4849. Copies are $4.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
This how-to publication provides information specific to Oregon’s conditions. No stormwater, garden or landscape expertise is necessary to use it. The step-by-step approach teaches how to determine where water flows across a homeowner’s property and the best place to put a rain garden to manage water flow across impervious areas.

The guide points out what local regulations need to be followed and how to determine slope, drainage rates and texture of the soil. Size of the rain garden and volume of water it can hold also are discussed, as are how to excavate, grade and build berms. The guide also recommends native perennials that can withstand both frequent wet and dry cycles.

The guidebook is a joint project of the OSU Extension Service and Oregon Sea Grant, East Multnomah Soil and Water Conservation District, Jackson Soil and Water Conservation District, and the Oregon Environmental Council. Partial funding for the guide was provided by a grant from Oregon Department of Environmental Quality.

Multnomah County Master Gardeners in the News

2009-11-25T12:58:00.000-08:00

The Multnomah County Master Gardeners are back in full force, and are doing great things in their community.

Check out the two linked articles, in the sentence above, for more details.

Invasive Species Resources for Master Gardeners

2009-10-14T10:42:00.001-07:00

If you haven't had the opportunity to listen to OSU Sea Grant Extension's Rob Emanuel talk about how Master Gardeners can help in the prevent the introduction, establishment and spread of invasive species, you're in luck! Rob has graciously put together a list of resources that Master Gardener volunteers can refer to when working with clients.

His Power Point presentation, 'Invasive Species 101: A Primer for Master Gardeners' is posted online for all.

Here, you can view a list of species which have been classified as noxious weeds in Oregon (i.e. they are invasive). The savvy or long-time gardening may recognize that many of these beautiful plants were once popular among gardeners. These include Bachelor's Button, Spurge Laurel, and Old Man's Beard. Now, instead of being the propagators of invasive plants, gardeners are valued partners in the fight against invasive species.

Why should we be worried about invasive species?

** Invasive species often outcompete native plants and animals, which results in a loss of native biodiversity. If you've ever seen native riparian areas become overtaken by Japanese Knotweed, it is a loss of native beauty and biodiversity to mourn. Or, a drive up to Portland along I-5 provides a glimpse into how English Ivy can overtake forest fragments.

** Invasive species can be costly! For example, leafy spurge is abundant in the Oregon counties of Klamath, Grant and Cook. Where is it present, it can reduce the carrying capacity for cattle by 50-75%! Scotch Broom infestations in Western Oregon are estimated to result in an economic loss of $47 million dollars, due to a reduction or loss of timber production.

Educate yourself about invasive plants, and you are in a prime position to educate clients about the potentially negative impacts of invasive species on our environment and our economy.

When a client comes into the Plant Clinic, or calls the gardening hotline and asks 'What is this plant?' - you have an educational opportunity.

First - inform the client that the plant is designated as a noxious weed by the Oregon Department of Agriculture.

Second - give the client who can't part with the beautiful Butterfly Bush (or another attractive invasive) options for control. Deadhead invasive ornamentals faithfully before they go to seed. Use root barriers to contain an invasive in your yard. Dispose of invasive plant materials (clippings, pulled plants, flowers, ANYTHING) by bagging them in a sealed plastic bag and placing them in the trash. Where municipalities allow, invasive plant materials may be burned.

Third - become familiar with the latest control options for a particular plant. Because Japanese Knotweed is able to grow from even the tiniest of stem fragments - mechanical cutting and removal is not an effective means to control this plant. Leave a small stem fragment (about the size of your thumb) on the ground, and the plant may come back in force. Instead, herbicide applications are much more effective. Of course, whenever using any type of pesticide, including herbicides, follow all label directions and check the PNW Weed book to make sure that a particular herbicide is registered for use by homeowners.

Finally - don't propagate the spread of invasive plants. Don't share a plant with your friends unless you know it is non-invasive. Plant native plants and non-invasive plants in your garden. Check for potential 'hitchhikers' on plants you purchase from a local nursery or at a plant sale. Become educated about the primary invasive plant species in your area - as well as species that are a potential threat to your area, but have yet to be found (hello, garlic mustard!). If you find an invasive plant that is new to your area, report it to the Oregon Invasive Species Hotline.

Gardeners Mini-College (2009) Registration is Open

2009-06-08T17:49:00.000-07:00

The 26th annual Gardeners Mini-College will be held from August 5-8, 2009 at the CH2M Alumni Center on the OSU campus in Corvallis, Oregon. Mini-College is an educational event put on by the OSU Master Gardener Program and the Oregon Master Gardener Association (OMGA).

The theme for this year's Mini-College is “Backyard Food Solutions: Local. Sustainable. Secure.” Choose from over 30 talks, tours and workshops, on a variety of topics, including:

cover cropping your vegetable garden, home winemaking, backyard chickens, organic vegetable gardening, heavy metals in garden soils, home orchards, backyard wine and table grapes, composting, season extenders, making teas from garden herbs, dealing with deer and other mammals in the home garden, an in-depth look at garden fertilizers, etc.

You do NOT have to be a current OSU Master Gardener in order to attend Mini-College. This conference is open to all! This event is the Statewide Master Gardener Conference for Oregon gardeners. Please join us!

Online registration is open until July 15, 2009. Early bird registration discount ends on June 26, 3009.

Oregon Farm to School and School Garden Program

2009-04-01T12:54:00.000-07:00

I have been asked to provide testimony to the Oregon Agriculture, Natural Resources and Rural Communities House Committee, that describes the importance of the School Garden Component of House Bill 2800. The bill supports activities that would encourage local school districts to purchase Oregon Agricultural products for school lunches, as well as to support garden-based educational activities.

Below, for those who are interested, is the testimony that I will deliver on April 2, 2009.

April 2, 2009

Chair Clem, and members of the Agriculture, Natural Resources and Rural Communities House Committee:

My name is Gail Langellotto, and I am the statewide coordinator of the OSU Extension Master Gardener Program.

I am here today, to discuss how the school garden component of House Bill 2800 is important to promoting healthy food choices in young children. Specifically, studies have shown that children who participate in school garden activities are more willing to taste vegetables, are more knowledgeable about nutrition, increase their fruit and vegetable consumption and tend to prefer fruits and vegetables more than children who don’t have the opportunity to learn by gardening.

What we have seen in our own work in school gardens, right here in Oregon, supports what is reported in the scholarly literature.

Some of the children that Master Gardeners and others work with in school gardens come from families who grow their own food - many do not.

As the children begin to work in the garden, it is not uncommon to hear ‘I wouldn’t eat anything that doesn’t come from a grocery store’. However, the children are both surprised and excited to discover that this is how their food supply begins. Better yet – when the children learn that they will be eating food that they, themselves, will grow – the smiles and lip-smacking and pretend nibbling are an undeniable endorsement – growing your own food is good.

At Yaquina View Elementary school, 1^st and 2^nd graders plant seeds in the classroom in April, transfer their seedlings to the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse Garden in late May, and harvest the food to take to the local Food Share in September.

Each fall, Master Gardeners teach a nutrition class, where the children get to see, feel, smell, and taste the harvested vegetables and herbs. Who would’ve guessed that beets and beet greens have been ranked as favorites of 1^st and 2^nd graders? Carrots, peas, beans, pumpkin and sunflower seeds are also quite popular. Nasturtium petals, on the other hand, didn’t rank high on their list - too peppery!

The children love the hands-on process of growing food. From the beginning, the children know that they are growing food to help others. This may be one of their first community service lessons. In September, as the children were harvesting and packaging their produce, one student said that he would like to keep what he had helped to grow - but he also understood that others in the community were hungry and this food would help them. May I remind you that these incredibly thoughtful and compassionate words were spoken by a 2^nd grader.

Another child was so excited to show off his garden and his gardening skills, that he called his grandfather, 130 miles away in Portland, and excitedly told him that he HAD to come down for the garden harvest. A proud grandfather beamed and took pictures, as his grandson picked the vegetables and herbs that he helped to grow.

With the help of a greenhouse, 5^th graders at the Yaquina View Elementary school propagated vegetables, which were then sold at the Newport Farmer’s Market. The funds raised went towards a field trip to the Fruit Loop in Hood River – once again re-enforcing the fact that a healthy and vibrant local food system is important to healthy kids and healthy communities. These 5^th graders were able to develop their gardening and their entrepreneurial skills, as well as to expand their appreciation of food production.

Although the examples I provided today are from an elementary school in Lincoln County, we have seen similar, positive results in many schools across the state. In programs supported by Master Gardener volunteers, children as young as 3 years old have been introduced to gardening. From preschool to 5^th grade – the results are undeniable – working in the garden and growing their own food ignites children’s excitement about and acceptance of a diverse array of vegetables and fruits in their diet. It is at this young age that patterns of healthy eating are often established.

As an employee of the state, I am not able to explicitly endorse HB2800, but I hope that the examples and testimony that I have provided speak to the importance of school gardens and the school garden component of HB2800, to healthy kids and healthy communities.

Thank you for the opportunity to testify before you today.

Sincerely,

Gail Langellotto

Statewide Coordinator - OSU Master Gardener Program

Edible Portland Magazine

2009-03-30T10:17:00.000-07:00

I will return to blogging on the science underlying gardening and issues related to gardening soon. Currently, I am writing a short piece on compost teas.

In the meantime, I wanted to draw attention to Organic Gardening Certificate Program, which is currently taught in the Portland Metro area. This 57-hour training was created by OSU Extension, Oregon Tilth, and other program partners to support the groundswell of interest in organic gardening, ecological landscaping, and food security in the Portland metro area.

The 2008 Organic Gardening Certificate Program (OGCP) is the focus of the cover story for the spring Edible Portland magazine in both the print and online versions.

Check it out at http://edibleportland.com/content/currentissue/ and click on the “Dig in” link and look for the article entitled “First Class.”

It's Like NPR for Insect Geeks

2009-03-28T07:54:00.000-07:00

I don't consider the word 'geek' to be a pejorative. In fact, I consider it a compliment when someone calls me a 'geek'. Even better is to be called a 'bug geek'. Thus, you can imagine my delight when I found out that Anna Fiedler (a Ph.D. candidate in Entomology at Michigan State University) partnered with Jake McCarthy (an editor in the Department of Animal Science at MSU) to write and produce InsectaPodCast.

In a recent American Entomologist article, Anna wrote that the target audience for the podcast is primarily kids and young adults. One of the goals of InsectaPodCast is to get kids excited about the field of entomology. I'm MUCH older than the target audience (by about 30 years), yet I found myself LOVING the segments. The episode about insect collections is thus far my favorite, perhaps because of my own mixed feelings about collecting insects that I love (i.e. killing insects that I love), for scientific study.

Check it out, and perhaps subscribe to the RSS feed, if you like what you hear.

A Request! Do sonic deer deterrents work to prevent deer damage in yards?

2009-03-12T08:49:00.001-07:00

A Master Gardener in Clackamas County, OR requested that I blog on sonic deer deterrents as a potential means to keep the often ubiquitous and unwanted garden visitor away.

A 1995 study found the Yard Gard (sic) Ultrasonic Yard Protector to be ineffective at deterring deer from feeding on apples in two yards with a history of deer damage. Control (no Yard Gard device) and treatment (Yard Gard device present and turned on) feeding stations were established at each yard. Twenty apples were placed at each feeding station. Feeding stations were restocked for the duration of the study.

Deer consumed 96% of the 380 total apples at the control stations (no Yard Gard) and 98.9% of the 380 total apples at the experimental stations (Yard Gard device present and turned on). Behavioral observations suggest that the deer were alert or nervous when the Yard Gard device was 'on', but this behavior did not translate into reduced deer damage.

The scat (poop) and tracks of several other vertebrates were found near the feeding stations. These include squirrels, crows and turkeys.

The bottom line for the home gardener: the ultrasonic deer deterrents are not likely to reduce deer damage to your garden.

Organic Produce – More Nutritious than Conventionally Grown Produce?

2009-03-10T13:23:00.000-07:00

At last year’s Mini-College, a presentation on organic food production caused a minor amount of controversy when the speaker mentioned that organically produced foods are healthier than conventionally produced foods. Since the OSU Master Gardener Program strives to rely upon and present unbiased, research-based information, some Master Gardeners questioned the research underlying this statement. Thus, I thought I would blog on what is known (from peer-reviewed scientific studies) about the nutritional content of organic versus conventional produce.

First, let me define organic versus conventional farming methods. Although the USDA lists a lengthy definition and regulatory text for organic production systems, I think that it will be more useful to distill down the definition for this blog. Organic farmers work to build and maintain the organic matter in their soils and the natural pest control agents in and near their fields (i.e. predators and parasitoids). Organic farming systems tend to be more diverse (in both their crops and associated organisms) than do conventional systems. Cultural, physical and biological controls of pests are emphasized over chemical controls. External inputs of pesticides and fertilizers are reduced. When pesticides and fertilizers are used, organic forms of these products are used. Synthetic forms of these products are not allowed in organic production systems.

Conventional farming systems, by comparison, do not focus on soil management, biodiversity within their fields and cultural or physical controls of pests. Biological control of pests is often disrupted or difficult due to the use of pesticides (which may be organically derived or synthetically manufactured).

Organic farm production often occurs at a smaller scale, and requires more labor, than does a conventional farm. This is why organic produce can be more expensive than conventional produce.

In fact, a 1998 study of the cost difference between organic and conventional produce in Tucson, AZ found that red delicious apples were 44% more expensive than conventionally grown applies. Similar results were found for broccoli (+76%), carrots (+78%), leaf lettuce (+92%), and tomatoes (+62%). [Gary D. Thompson and Julia Kidwell. 1998. Explaining the Choice of Organic Produce: Cosmetic Defects, Prices, and Consumer Preferences American Journal of Agricultural Economics, Vol. 80: 277-287.]

Unfortunately, I could not find more recent numbers in the peer-reviewed literature. OSU Master Gardeners – would you care to help me out with a quick and easy research project? If so, contact me via this blog.

What about the nutritional content of organic versus conventionally-produced foods? A 2003 study by Asami and colleagues looked at the total phenolic content of marionberries, strawberries and corn that were produced by organic, ‘sustainable’ and conventional methods. In this study, organic fields were managed to adhere to USDA organic production standards. Sustainable fields were managed to ‘meet the needs of consumers without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’. Information is presented on the fertilization regime of the sustainable fields (synthetic fertilizers were used), and on the pesticides used (none in one field and herbicides in a second field) but additional information on sustainable management practices were not presented in this paper.

The authors looked at total phenolic content of these plants, because polyphenols, in particular, are known to have anti-oxidant properties. For marionberries and corn, higher levels of total phenolics were found in organically and sustainably produced, relative to marionberries and corn from conventionally managed fields. Sustainably produced strawberries had higher total phenolics, relative to conventionally produced strawberries (the authors did not include organically grown strawberries in their study) – but only when strawberries were frozen, and not when they were freeze-dried or air-dried. [Asami, D. K., Hong, Y-J., Barrett, D. M. & Mitchell, A. E. (2003). Comparison of the total phenolic and ascorbic acid content of freeze-dried and air-dried marionberry, strawberry and corn grown using conventional, organic and sustainable agricultural practices. J. Agric. Food Chem. 51(5):1237-1241.]

Two recent review papers found similar results (Zhao et al. 2006, Benbrook 2009). Nutrient density and secondary plant metabolites (many of which are known to have anti-oxidant properties) tended to be higher in organically-produced foods than in conventionally grown foods.

Why might organically grown foods have more nutrients and anti-oxidants that conventionally grown foods?

First, organically-grown foods are often grown in soils with abundant and balanced micro- and macro-nutrients. This is because organic food production emphasises the accumulation and retention of organic material in the soil. This may translate into produce that contains a more balanced array of vitamins and minerals.

Second, insects may feed upon organically-grown crops more often than they damage conventionally grown crops. This may be due to differences in pesticide use in organically versus conventionally-managed fields. When insects feed upon a plant, they can induce or trigger the plant’s chemical defenses against herbivory. These chemical defenses can include polyphenols – which are known to have antioxidant properties.

What does this mean for the home gardener?

Managing your soil to encourage and maintain a high level of organic matter, and minimizing or removing pesticid use in your vegetable garden can yield multiple benefits. First, these management practices are generally more environmentally friendly than are the repeated and unncessary use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides in the home garden. Second, these management practices may result in you and your family enjoying fruits and vegetables that contain more vitamins, minerals and antioxidents than those that come from vegetable gardens that are managed without regard to soil health or the non-target effects of pesticides.

Benefits of Indoor Plants

2009-02-23T19:47:00.000-08:00

The benefits of gardening are not limited to the beauty and productivity of an outdoor garden. Indoor garden plants have long been known to have positive effects on the mental and physical health of office workers. Specifically, a 1998 study by researchers in Norway revealed that workers in offices complained less about fatigue (reduced by 30%) and cough (reduced by 37%), and reported lower levels of throat and skin discomfort (reduced by 23%) relative to workers in offices without plants.

Now, a group of Korean researchers may have identified a mechanism for these positive benefits of indoor plants. (Kwang et al. 2008. Efficiency of Volatile Formaldehyde Removal by Indoor Plants: Contribution of Aerial Plant Parts versus the Root Zone. Horticultural Science 133: 479-627.)

Researchers from Korea's National Horticultural Research Institute examined the ability of Ficus benjamina and Fatsia japonica to absorb formaldehyde from the air. To study this, the researchers pumped formaldehyde into a container that held one of the two plants, or into a container that was empty. On average, containers with plants removed 80% of the formaldehyde from the air in only 4 hours. Containers without plants lost only 7% of the formaldehyde in 5 hours. Plant leaves reduced more formaldehyde during the day, while roots of reduced more formaldehyde at night. This suggests that formaldehyde is taken in through plant stomates during the day, when rates of photosynthesis are highest. The night removal of formaldehyde by the root zone suggests that soil microbes play an important role in formaldehyde removal.

Formaldehyde is a common household VOC (volatile organic compound) that is known to have negative effects on human health. In fact, VOC's, including formaldehyde, have been linked to 'sick building syndrome'.

What is the bottom line for the home gardener, or the party guest who is looking for a suitable hostess gift? Indoor plants will reap multiple benefits, not the least of which is better air quality, for the gardener or the gift recipient.

Landscaping with Native Plants

2009-02-18T07:13:00.000-08:00

If you attended the 2008 Master Gardener Mini-College, perhaps you heard Doug Tallamy speak about the importance of native plants to the conservation of bird and insect species. A seminal paper, which provides data in support of Tallamy's arguments, was recently published in Conservation Biology (Burghardt, Tallamy and Shriver. 2009. Impact of native plants on bird and butterfly biodiversity in suburban landscapes. Conserv Biol. 1:219-24).

Burghardt and colleagues measured the diversity of birds and caterpillars (which are, of course, the larval or juvenille form of butterflies) in 12 suburban yards in Pennsylvania. Six yards were landscaped almost exclusively with native plants (43% native and 6% exotic plant cover), and the other six were landscaped with exotic shrubs and groundcovers (although, native trees were present on these properties; 18% native and 26% exotic plant cover).

The abundance of caterpillars (the larvae of butterflies and moths) was 4 times greater on the 'native sites', relative to the 'exotic' sites. In addition, the number of different species represented by these caterpillars was 3 times greater on the 'native' sites, relative to the 'exotic' sites. Approximately 19 species of bird were found at the native sites, compared to 11 species at the 'exotic' sites. Mean abundance of birds at the 'native' sites was 17, compared to 11 birds at the 'exotic' sites.

Why do yards landscaped with native plants contain a greater abundance and diversity of birds and butterfly larvae? Burghardt and colleagues hypothesize that greater food availability for caterpillars at 'native' sites creates greater food availability for birds at such sites. Because many plant feeding insects can not feed exotic plants, and because many birds rely upon insect protein (rather than seed protein) to rear their young, planting native plants seems to cascade up the food chain - fostering an increase in abundance and diversity of plant feeding insects, which in turn fosters an increase in abundance and diversity of insect-feeding birds.

What does this mean for the home gardener? A yard landscaped with native plants can be beautiful, may reduce your fertilizer and water use (if you zone your plants accordingly, and if the natives are adapted to your soils), and can help to conserve biodiversity in your area.

For more on native plant gardening, please visit the Eco-Gardening website created by OSU Extension's Linda McMahan.

Happy President's Day

2009-02-16T18:02:00.000-08:00

In honor of President's Day, I thought I would take a few moments to honor some of our past presidents, who were also prolific gardeners.

Topping this last has to be the first President of the United States of America (one of my personal heros, for the way that he so selflessly stepped away from power, despite the protests of many compatriots). George Washington farmed at his Mount Vernon estate, where he overcame the poor soils by practicing a relatively novel plan of crop rotations. When he abandoned tobacco farming in about 1765, he switched to wheat and at least 60 other field crops.

Of course, we can not forget Thomas Jefferson, who grew more than 170 varieties of fruit and 330 varieties of vegetables in the gardens at his Monticello estate, and had a special interest in the pea plant. In fact, Jefferson cultivated over 22 varieties of pea. Following the expedition of Lewis and Clark, Jefferson developed a curiosity about the plants of North America, and how they could be used for practical purposes.

In 1825 John Quincy Adams developed the first flower garden at the White House. Adams also planted herbs and vegetables at the White House, as well as ornamental trees.

In 1835, Andrew Jackson established a White House orangery (a type of greenhouse) where tropical trees and flowers could be grown. Jackson also added the Jackson magnolia to the White House grounds. The orangery was demolished in 1857. In 1878, Rutherford B. Hayes started the tradition of planting commemorative trees for Presidential Inaugurations - a tradition that persists today.

As for First Ladies - Eleanor Roosevelt famously began the Victory Garden movement in 1943, when she planted a vegetable garden on the lawn of the White House and Lady Bird Johnson has long been associated with efforts to conserve native plants.

Today, Roger Doiron of Kitchen Gardeners International is helping to lead a campaign to re-establish a Victory Garden on the lawn of the White House.

Happy President's Day!

Lawns and Turf - Helpful or Hurtful to Global Climate Change

2009-01-01T14:45:00.000-08:00

It is perhaps appropriate that my thoughts turn to climate change and the amount of carbon that I personally emit into the atmosphere, as I drive around the state for Master Gardener and other trainings. From January to March, I am scheduled to deliver 17 talks, that will require that I drive approximately 2612 round trip miles. Together, these trips will emit approximately 2023 pounds of carbon dioxide if I take my own vehicle (a 2006 Ford Escape, that gets 25 miles per gallon) and 1011 pounds of carbon dioxide if I rent a Hybrid sedan from OSU Motor Pool (50 miles per gallon). Because I am often asked to talk about integrated pest management, alternatives to pesticide or some other facet of sustainable gardening, I often feel hypocritical for driving around the state to teach and promote sustainable choices. But, I enjoy meeting the many Master Gardeners from across the state, learning more about Master Gardener Programs in individual counties, and always enjoy the scenary.

Given that my thoughts have turned to how much carbon I emit when I drive to teach, I thought I would blog about how much carbon we can sequester or emit via our lawn care practices.

In 2002, an article in Agronomy Journal (94:930-935) by Qian and Follett attracted much attention from scientists and industry professsionals, alike. Briefly, Qian and Follett measured the soil organic matter (abbreviated, hereafter, as SOM) in 15 golf courses that ranged in age from 1.5 to 45 years old (as of the year 2000). Because carbon is a key component of SOM (approximately 57% of soil organic matter is carbon, by weight), scientists have long used measures of SOM as a proxy for the amount of carbon sequestered by soils. Qian and Follett found that SOM increased with the age of the golf course, and that SOM continued to increase until about 31 years in fairways and 45 years in putting greens. Furthermore, Qian and Follet found that previous land use influenced total SOM. Agricultural fields that were converted into golf courses had lower SOM than golf courses that were converted from native grasslands. This last finding can potentially be explained by another study, conducted by Khan and colleagues (see below).

However, a paper presented at a recent meeting of the American Geophysical Union questions the overall utility of turf to moderate the emission of greenhouse gasses. Amy Townsend Small measured SOM in 4 parks in Irvine, California. The parks were established between 4 and 34 years ago. While Townsend Small found that older parks had more SOM, she also found that older parks emitted more nitrous oxide, which is a potent greenhouse gas. Although the precise cause of this relationship is not known, Townsend Small hypothesizes that a build up of nitrogen in the soils, as a result of repeated fertilizer applications, may contribute to increased nitrous oxide emissions.

In addition, a recent paper published in the Journal of Environmental Quality by Khan and colleagues reports that long term application of nitrogen fertilizers to corn fields decreases SOM. Khan and colleagues suggest that excessive nitrogen applications increases the decomposition of dead organic matter and SOM by soil bacteria. This is perhaps why Qian and Follet found that golf courses converted from agricultural fields had less SOM than golf courses convereted from native grasslands - the native grasslands were not subject to repeated fertilizer applications.

Taken together, what does all of this mean for you, the gardener? Here are the take home points:

1) Plants in general, including turf grasses in lawns, sequester carbon and may help mitigate carbon emissions and global climate change.

2) The benefits we all may gain, from increased SOM and carbon sequestration, can be nullified if we use fertilizers excessively. Excess fertilizer may volatize into nitrous oxide (a greenhouse gas) or may accelerate the decomposition of organic matter in the soil. Neither of these is good for helping to slow global climate change.

3) Khan and colleagues suggest that farmers should get a soil test before applying fertilizers to their fields. Doing so will lessen the likelihood that fertilizers are applied excessively. I suggest the same for you and I, dear gardener. Having your soil tested prior to applying fertilizers will help to ensure that we apply only what is needed, and only when soil nutrients are truly depleted.

Another Benefit of Pollinators in the Garden?

2008-12-22T20:58:00.000-08:00

In an article published in the journal Current Biology, researchers from the University of Wurzburg in Germany report that the presence of honey bees deters damage by plant feeding caterpillars. Tautz and Rostas measured plant damage to soybeans and peppers (with and without fruit) by beet armyworms, in the presence and absence of honey bees. When the plants were not fruiting, the presence of honey bees reduced caterpillar damage by 61-69%, compared to plants with the beet armyworms but without the honey bees.

The scientists suggest that damage is reduced, because the caterpillars sense vibrations by the bees' wings. In an earlier study, Tautz and Markl found that caterpillars use hairs on their body to sense the vibrations of hunting wasps. When wasps are perceived, the caterpillars stop moving, stop feeding, and vomit. This reaction delivers a degree of protection to the caterpillars - those exhibiting these behaviors are attacked 30% less than caterpillars that continue to feed.

The recent Tautz and Rostas study is exciting, because it suggests another potential benefit of pollinators in the garden. In addition, this study provides a new perspective on interactions between plants, herbivores and pollinators. Scientists have long known that herbivore damage can reduce the attractiveness of flowering plants to pollinators. But, this is the first study that I know of that suggests that pollinators can have a similar effect on herbivores.

OSU Professor to Head NOAA

2008-12-19T13:58:00.000-08:00

Three cheers for OSU Professor Jane Lubchenco, who was just tapped by Barack Obama to head NOAA (National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration). Dr. Lubchenco is a world-reknown scientist, and an active player in the public policy arena. Her appointment is a huge source of pride to the OSU community, and to Oregon, in general.

Welcome to the OSU Master Gardener Blog

2008-12-19T09:59:00.001-08:00

The OSU Extension Master Gardener Program provides training for volunteers, who in turn assist in providing community horticulture services to the public. Under the auspices of Oregon State University Extension, individuals with an active interest in horticulture enroll in an intensive training program in horticulture and related fields. When the trainees complete their coursework, pass all assessments, and complete their volunteer practicum, they become an OSU Extension Master Gardener.

A primary mission of the OSU Master Gardener Program is to provide sustainable gardening advice to the public, using unbiased and research based materials. It is this reliance on research-based materials that ensures that the advice given by an OSU Master Gardener volunteer is of the highest possible quality.

In order to support OSU Master Gardener volunteers in their endeavor to provide the unbiased, research-based advice to gardeners seeking answers to plant problems, I thought that I would begin a blog. I am not yet sure how often I will be able to update the blog, but I intend to write at least one short article per week, and will try to focus on contemporary research that may be of interest to Master Gardeners.

When I can not find a journal article that strikes my fancy, I will report on events or other information that is likely to appeal to Master Gardener volunteers and other friends of the Program.

Please feel free to comment on posts, or to suggest a journal article that you would like to see featured.